Once this step is completed, glue the 1/4-inch dowel into the hole in the smooth side of the block, lock it in place with another brad and sand the opposite end of the thin peg lightly so that it can slide in and out of the small opening in the base without binding. Now, grind the 1-1/2-inch section of threaded rod flat on one side and file the opposite side, just at its ends, enough to form 1/4-inch-square platforms at the tips, which you can then pierce with 5/64-inch holes prior to mounting the piece - threaded side up - in your previously channeled block, using small brass brads. You can also take this opportunity to bore a 21/64-inch hole 3/8 inch from one end of each of the remaining two posts. Then drill two 7/64-inch holes, parallel to the concave face of the indentation, at points 3/8 inch and 2-1/4 inches from the dowel’s short end. With that task complete, carve a crescent-shaped depression - 3/8 inch deep and approximately 2-1/8 inches in length - in one of the 3/4-inch dowels, making its midpoint about 1-3/8 inches from one end of the post. Then center-bore a 1/4-inch hole about 3/4 inches deep into the flat end of the pierced rectangle, thread it with a 5/16-18 tap, and lop off the cross-bored tip 1/4 inch from the end to create four wooden “fingers.” Trim the third piece of hardwood to 3/4-by-3/4-by-1-1/2 inches, then cross-drill two 1/2-inch openings through the block, each centered and at a point 1-1/4 inches from one end. With that done, chisel a 5/16-inch-square channel longitudinally down the center of the same piece of wood, drill a 15/64-inch hole through the billet at the midpoint of this groove and remove 3/8-inch from each end of the chunk, cutting right across the holes and reducing its overall length to 2-1/4 inches. Then take your 3-inch-long block and bore holes at each end-centered and 2-1/4 inches apart using the 3/4-inch bit. Finish up the base by center-boring a 7/16-inch hole, 3/8 inch deep, directly over the just-drilled quarter-incher. Next, drill three 3/4-inch holes through the 11-1/4-inch block (which will be the contraption’s base) at the points shown in the illustration of this article’s image gallery, and bore a 1/4-inch opening halfway between the two 3/4-inch cavities that are closest together. Then trim a 1-1/2-inch piece from the threaded rod and divide the 3/4-inch dowel into three equal parts. 6 by 1/2-inch roundhead wood screw and some assorted brads.įirst, cut your block into three sections: one 11-1/4 inches, the second 3 inches and the third 1-1/2 inches long. by 2-1/4-inch compression spring, a 12-1/4-inch-long piece of 5/16-18 threaded rod, a 1/4-by-2-7/16-inch hardwood dowel, a 7/16-by-2-5/8-inch scrap of (preferably) stainless steel that’s 1/32 inch thick, a 1/8-by-1-inch steel dowel pin, a piece of flat metal measuring 1/8-by-1/2-by-3 inches, a 2-inch-long wooden crank handle, a 1/4-by-2-1/2-inch coarse-threaded machine bolt with a nut and flat washer, a 5/16-18 hex nut, a No. To make your own spiral chipper, you’ll need a block of hardwood (I used birch) measuring 3/4-by-1-1/4-by-15-3/4 inches, a 3/4-inch birch dowel that’s 10-1/2 inches in length, a 5/16-inch I.D. My hand-cranked gizmo is, admittedly, a bit complicated, but it’s fun to use and works wonderfully. As anyone who’s made potato chips knows, the secret of success is getting the meat of the vegetable evenly thin, so that it’ll fry quickly (before it absorbs too much oil) but still hold together. Home Organization News, Blog, & ArticlesĪfter reading a recent article on making potato chips, I thought some of MOTHER EARTH NEWS’ readers might be interested in a gadget I designed for cutting spuds into spiral slices.Energy Efficiency News, Blog, & Articles.
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